Fes (also spelled Fez) is a city in the inland north of Morocco and the capital of the Fès-Meknès region. It was founded under the Idrisid dynasty in the 8th century. In the early 9th century, successive waves of immigrants, mainly Arabs from Ifriqiya (present-day Tunisia) and from al-Andalus (Muslim Spain and Portugal), gave the young city its Arab character.
We began the day at the Royal Palace of Fes, Dar al-Makhzen, which is the King of Morocco’s palace in the city. It dates back to 1276, when the Marinid dynasty built “New Fez” (Fes el-Jdid) as its royal citadel. Today, the parts of the palace that the public can see are its main entrances: one on the Old Mechouar square to the northeast, and the highly ornate 20th-century gates with their magnificent architecture.
The gate of Royal Palace of Fes,
We then hurried through Bab Bou Jeloud, known as the “Blue Gate”, an ornate gateway into the old city, the Medina of Fes. Its outer face is mostly blue and its inner face mostly green. The present gate was built by the French colonial administration in 1913 as a grand entrance to the old city. The Medina is the world’s largest car-free urban area. It was founded between 789 and 808 AD by the Idrisid dynasty, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is regarded as the cultural and spiritual heart of Morocco. It reminded me of Merkato in Addis Ababa.
the Bab Bou Jeloud or the “Blue Gate” a gateway into the Medina of Fes from outside and inside as well as the Medina from different direction.
The Medina of Fes has everything, including the University of Al-Qarawiyyin. It was founded as a mosque by Fatima al-Fihri in 857–859 and went on to become one of the leading religious and educational centres of the Islamic world. UNESCO and Guinness World Records cite it as the oldest existing, continually operating institution of higher learning in the world. Scholars consider that it was effectively run as a religious school (madrasa) until after World War II. In 1963 it became part of Morocco’s modern state university system, and two years later it was officially renamed the “University of Al Quaraouiyine”. Today it serves as a mosque and a centre for Islamic studies. The mosque building is also an important example of Moroccan and Islamic architecture, with elements from many different periods of Moroccan history.
The oldest University in the world - University of Al-Qarawiyyin
Our visit also included a stop at a demonstration of the fine decorative work done on sheet metal and on wood. Next, we visited a ceramics workshop, where we saw how each intricately designed piece is made from start to finish.
Allal's Art Gallery inside the Medina of Fes!
Naji pottery and tiles handmade - ceramic factory
Our visit included a stop at the Chouara Tannery, the largest and one of the oldest of the three tanneries in Fes. Leather has been tanned here in much the same way since the city’s early centuries. Today the tanneries are among the city’s main tourist attractions. They are packed with round stone vats filled with dyes or with white liquids used to soften the hides. The leather goods made here are exported all over the world.
The Chouara Tannery - oldest leather factory inside the Medina,
Finally, we drove up into the mountains to enjoy a beautiful panoramic view, and then visited a family that lives in a cave. The family has lived there for twelve generations. The cave has to be whitewashed twice a year to keep out moisture and odours. They served us mint tea with Moroccan pancake bread (msemen). Today the cave is fully self-contained, with running water, a small kitchen and electricity.
Served pancake and mint tea inside a family cave!
